Estoril - Portuguese Restaurant

[Bob]

It is a bit ironic, perhaps, that our website's first restaurant review is not for one that is Asturian or even a Spanish, but for one that is Portuguese. There are, however, some common themes in Iberian food in general, and the restaurant is so good that I can't resist. If you like Spanish food, you will like the food at Estoril.

Estoril is located in Naugatuck, Connecticut, at 152 Church Street (203-729-7850). There is plenty of free parking in the municipal lot across the street. The restaurant itself is located in an old downtown building, nicely but not completely renovated on the inside. If you don't like tobacco smoke, be sure to avoid the bar and sit in the dining room. The waitstaff is attentive and the dining room, with subdued lighting and crips linens, is very pleasant. Prices are low to moderate for Connecticut.

Four of us met at Estoril for lunch. Having eaten there several times before, we knew that the portions tend toward the enormous, so we shared an appetizer of clams Spanish style, a dozen medium clams with onion, garlic, and red pepper sauce serve with a very good (and warm) crusty bread. An excellent choice, as it turned out. This and a glass or two of wine could easily have served as a light lunch for one person (under $10 with one glass of wine). There are quite a few other clam appetizers on the menu.

I ordered the roast baby goat, which was lightly coated with a garlic scented sauce. It was was wonderful, similar to very young lamb and not at all gamey or mutton-like, although it was a bit of a job to remove the meat from the some of the odd shaped bones (Were it not for my Santa-like full beard and moustache I would simply have picked up the pieces and gnawed away.). The roast goat was accompanied by fried potatoes and green beans, simple but very good. I also had a taste of the roast suckling pig, which was equally good. The bacalao with greens and potatoes was also excellent (and enormous--be forewarned). We finished our leisurely lunch with good conversation, a glass or two of oporto (gratis if you ask for it) and Portuguese brandy (similar to Fundador), espresso, and huge servings of flan. I cannot recall what the fourth entree was, and did not have a chance to sample it.

Every time we have met for lunch at Estoril, it has been on a Friday. The restaurant has always been nearly empty for our Friday lunches, and lunch reservations do not seem necessary. The situation at dinner, especially on weekends, may be very different. I have heard (but not experienced) that there is live music on weekend evenings.